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Grow Beds that Last: Premium Raised Bed Planting Systems for the Modern Gardener

There are many different types of raised planting beds to choose from when planning your garden, but here are two (2) that you may not have considered and that we highly recommend:

  1. Poured concrete raised beds for the periphery of your yard.
  2. Composite raised beds with either medium or heavy-duty steel joining hardware.

In this article we will discuss these two premium raised bed options and explain why we recommend incorporating them into your next gardening cycle. We also include pricing charts to help you plan your purchase, including topsoil fill and/or drip irrigation.

Let’s get started!

Other Raised Beds

Even though we love traditional block masonry beds (built from limestone, brick and sandstone) and the increasingly popular steel beds, the trick is to strike a balance between longevity, cost and function. Both are elegant in design, last for years and improve curb appeal. The downside is that as features these options tend to be very expensive.

Alternatively, cheaper beds built of pine and used primarily for gardening will only last one or two seasons before rotting out. Treated lumber, though long-lasting is generally not recommended for beds containing edible vegetables as they can leach harmful chemicals into the soil.

Another factor is mobility. Often garden & flower beds, aquaponics and other specialty beds will change positions as the arrangement of your garden changes from season to season. Though not as important for the garden periphery, it is important to have a few beds that can be repositioned each season as your planting strategy grows and develops. 

Poured Concrete Raised Beds

Poured concrete raised beds work well against the periphery of a yard. First of all because beds along the periphery are less-likely to need repositioning. Even as the landscape zones in a yard change over time, the periphery most always works well with planting beds adjacent. The plants can change over time and the plants can break up what would otherwise be a hard fence or property line. A planting bed creates the illusion of a continuing space rather than a hard stop. 

Grow poured concrete raised beds have the strongest concrete footers in the industry, use more steel reinforcing rebar than our competitors and use a higher quality proprietary GFRC (glass-fiber-reinforced-concrete) mix which provides strength against shifting or cracking as well as protection from water damage.

To save costs, especially when installed along a wooden fence line, the back unseen part of the bed may use pine timber, spaced several inches off the fence line to avoid moisture damage to the fence, and creates an “infinity pool” style finish to the back side of the mulch. The timber lasts as-long or longer than both treated pine and cedar picket wood fences, so when the fence is replaced after 10-15 years, a fresh timber may be attached to the back of the bed at the same time. 

Dark flashing is installed along the pine backing to prevent falling soil or mulch from building up and rotting against the existing wood fence. The bed may then be filled with drainage loam and garden soil mix (described in more detail below). Drip irrigation sections are installed and the bed is finished with a topsoil/ mulch moisture barrier!

The front finished side of a concrete raised bed has a modern look, repels water & moisture and thus prevents mildew. Walls are poured from 3 to 6-inches thick depending on how much space you need to set your iced tea!


Composite Raised Beds

All of our composite raised bed options use recycled HDPE, a high-density polyethylene and glass fiber structural framing lumber that is *BPA free and safe for growing vegetables.

*BPA free: Bisphenol A, a plastic and epoxy chemical toxin that can leach into soil. 

Medium-duty Steel Joining Hardware

Our medium-duty beds are assembled using 1/8-inch powder coated decorative steel joist hangers attached using rust-free hex lag screws to all four corners to maintain structural integrity for the lifetime of your bed. Every 8-foot section of bed includes a steel tie bar to keep the composite sides from bowing in any way due to soil and water pressure. Care must be taken with medium duty beds when transporting or repositioning from season to season.

The bed may then be filled with drainage loam and garden soil mix.

Drip irrigation sections are installed and the bed is finished with a topsoil/ mulch moisture barrier!

Heavy-duty Steel Joining Hardware

Our heavy duty hardware corners include 1/4-inch thick, 4×4-inch steel angle iron on the outside of the bed, and 1/8-inch thick, 2×2-inch steel angle iron on the inside of the bed, bound together by permanent carriage bolts and lock nut assemblies. These corners prevent any shifting or movement from occurring, even during transport.

Every 8-foot section of bed includes a steel tie bar to keep the composite sides from bowing in any way due to soil and water pressure.

The bed is then filled with drainage loam and garden soil mix. Drip irrigation sections are installed and the bed is finished with a topsoil/ mulch moisture barrier.

Tri-layer Fill 

Filling a garden bed should include three levels of planting media for optimal growing. The bottom layer must allow for drainage. Small rock is ok, but so is sand or sandy loam. The middle layer should be your garden mix:  a blend of topsoil and nitrogen-rich mature or finished compost. The top-layer is your moisture-retention layer which can include topsoil mixed with mulch-fines, dry grass or thatch. 

Drip Irrigation

Our drip irrigation sections are closed loop systems which helps to even out pressure and thus water flow. They include shut-off valve pairs for unplanted sections and are modular, so that each section connects effortlessly to the adjacent section.


Pricing

Below are pricing charts for:

  • concrete beds
  • composite beds with medium-Duty hardware
  • composite beds with heavy-Duty hardware.

Each bed section is based on 8 foot x 3⅛ foot raised beds (25 sq ft of planting space per bed) at 10-inches high, installed. The option for fill and/ or drip irrigation is also included.

Concrete Raised Bed: Pricing Sheet

Composite Raised Bed with Medium-Duty Hardware: Pricing Sheet

Composite Raised Bed with Heavy-Duty Hardware: Pricing Sheet

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Preparing the Root Ball of a Nursery Plant for Aquaponics: A Step-by-Step Guide

Aquaponics is a sustainable and efficient method of gardening that combines aquaculture and hydroponics. In this system, nutrient-rich water from a fish tank is used to nourish plants, creating a symbiotic relationship between fish and vegetation. When incorporating regular nursery plants into an aquaponics bed, it is crucial to prepare the root ball properly to ensure successful transplantation and growth. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to do it:

Select the Right Nursery Plant

Choose a healthy nursery plant that is suitable for your aquaponics system. Consider factors such as the plant’s water requirements, sunlight exposure, and compatibility with the fish in your aquaculture tank.

Remove the Plant from its Container

Gently remove the plant from its nursery container. You may need to loosen the soil around the edges of the container and carefully slide the root ball out. Handle the plant with care to avoid damaging the roots.

Inspect the Root Ball

Take a close look at the root ball to assess its health. Healthy roots should be white or light-colored, firm, and well-distributed throughout the soil. Avoid plants with brown, mushy, or damaged roots, as they may not thrive in the aquaponics system.

Wash and Rinse the Root Ball

Gently wash off the excess soil from the root ball. Use a gentle stream of water to remove the soil without causing damage to the roots. The goal is to expose the root system for better integration into the aquaponics bed.

Trim the Roots

If the root ball is too dense or compact, you can lightly trim some of the roots to encourage new growth. Use clean and sharp pruning shears to cut away any damaged or excessively long roots. Be careful not to remove too much, as this may shock the plant.

Wrap the Root Ball

Before transplanting the nursery plant into the aquaponics bed, gently wrap the root ball in light organic cheesecloth for protection. You may also use organic burlap or even gauze as long as it is 100% natural fiber and plastic free. The lighter the fabric the better as you are only trying to protect the innermost soil still attached to the center of the root ball during transfer into a media bed. Leave the tap roots unwrapped. As the plant grows the wrap as well as the excess soil will mostly dissolve. We recommend Unbleached Cotton Fine Mesh Weave Cheesecloth available at Amazon.

Soak the Wrapped Root Ball in Rooting Hormone

Next, soak the wrapped root ball in a bucket of water mixed with a rooting hormone solution for 10 to 15 minutes. This helps rehydrate the roots and promotes new root growth, preparing them for the transition to their new aquatic environment.

The recommended hormone for promoting root growth in nursery plants that will be transferred to aquaponics (or any other planting method) is typically a rooting hormone that contains Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) as the active ingredient.

Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) is a synthetic plant growth hormone that stimulates the formation of roots in cuttings or transplants. It is commonly found in rooting hormone products in the form of a powder, gel, or liquid. IBA works by encouraging the development of root cells at the cut ends of plant stems, thus facilitating successful root establishment and overall plant growth.

We recommend Fertilome (10640) Root Stimulator & Plant Starter Solution available at Amazon.

Introduce the Plant to the Aquaponics Bed

Place the nursery plant into the aquaponics bed, ensuring that the roots are fully submerged in the grow media while the stem and leaves remain above water level. Adjust the media around the plant to provide stability and prevent air pockets.

Monitor and Maintain

After transplanting, closely monitor the nursery plant for signs of stress or nutrient deficiencies. Ensure that the aquaponics system is running smoothly, with the right balance of fish waste and nutrient-rich water for the plants.

Gradual Adaptation

The nursery plant might take some time to adjust to the new environment. Initially, reduce the lighting intensity and limit the plant’s exposure to direct sunlight to avoid shock. Gradually increase the lighting and nutrient supply as the plant acclimatizes.

Conclusion

By following these steps, you can successfully prepare the root ball of a regular nursery plant for use in an aquaponics bed. Remember to choose healthy plants, handle them with care, and provide proper maintenance to enjoy a flourishing aquaponics garden that benefits both your plants and fish. Happy gardening!